Rebel Hardware Competion - Terminal Impedence Monitor

It all started with a Bandai Power Rangers toy I found on clearance at Toy Liquidators, a Kaybee outlet.

Last year someone on the RPF had mentioned it might have prop potential, and I could see what he meant: sounds, buttons, and twelve LEDs that light up in a variety of sequences.

I decided to turn it into the Star Wars equivalent of a voltmeter. The sounds and lights would simulate various tests it could perform on electronic equipment.

First step: remove the screws on the back and take it apart.

More screws held on a smoked dome that covered the LEDs. I wanted the guts to show, so that went bye-bye. I put the exposed circuitry aside for the time being and began detailing the cover/top shell half.

Howitzer kit: rubber tank tread serves as grip material on either side of the device, and along the underside of the lower shell to hide molded-in copyright text. Hard plastic tank tread plating pieces are also on the underside, as well as on the side of the upper shell (over the on/off switch) and amid the detailing that I added amongst the LEDs (see below). All of the dark green parts seen in the photos are from this kit.

DC passenger airplane kit: completing the detailing of the underside are wing flaps on either side of the tank tread along the bottom, as well as a wheel and a bulkhead detail. Another unknown piece of that kit, possibly landing gear struts, was used on the upper shell at the narrow end.

WWI Fokker: All of the lighter green pieces you see are from this kit. I don"t even know what most of them are supposed to be, but I used half of a machine gun along the side above the grip.

Peterbuilt wrecker: this kit contributed the chrome piece on the back of the upper shell, and also all of the chrome parts (and the grey part with holes) that I added around the LEDs.

Airfix 1/72 Sherman: provided the tank tread detail on the upper shell near the narrow end.

A few more parts came from the general parts stash, so I have no idea what kits they originate from.

The model kit identification is vague because I acquired most of them loose and incomplete in unlabeled baggies. I got them a while back to use on projects such as this. You needn"t concern yourself with duplicating every little part-just grab some cheap kits and see what looks good!

Next: painting prepwork. I drilled holes in the bottom for the coiled cords to attach to (see below) and opened up gaps on either side near some extra space by the battery cover so I would have a place to attach the "contact leads" (ditto).

I decided to let the lower shell remain black, but with all the kit parts on it I still needed to paint it. Satin black did the trick. I masked off the electronics, of course, but I did make sure to paint over the red on/off switch.

I ended up painting the upper shell several times. I thought primer grey might work, then I covered that with machine grey (which I use on a lot of rebel stuff, including my X-Wing pilot chest box), but I ended up covering that with a Plasticote metallic medium-dark grey. I decided not to weather it (for now) but when I do the various coats will help with the "well used" look.

The contact leads are very simple: flexible black coil from cheap keychains (which looks like rubber Graflex synch cord, only it"s shiny and plastic... available at K-Mart, etc), aluminum tube stock (available at hobby stores), and two more chrome pieces from the Peterbuilt wrecker kit. The cord ends were glued into the pre-drilled holes, and once the shells were reattached, the tubes fit snugly into the recesses I made accessible for them. I left the red buttons as they were-they have simple symbols on them and not English letters, so why not?

Lastly, the device is used in the reverse configuration of the toy, just to help hide its origins. Wide end toward the user.

Terminal Impedence Monitor" (aka "voltmeter" J )